Via Barbaroux

by admin on May 14, 2012

When we are staying in the attic apartment in Torino, I try to shop as much as I can on the narrow cobblestone street called Via Barbaroux which stretches all the way to Piazza Castello from our palazzo. Here it is as if time stood still and almost all our needs are met with tiny owner-operated one room shops. I can buy groceries, cheese, vegetables, flowers, and browse the antique and junk stores at the same time. The shopkeepers are warm and friendly and know our kids, our shopping habits, and what we are up to. We stop to have a chat or say hello if we are walking by their shops, even if we aren’t stopping to buy. If we find ourselves without enough money, or can’t make the right change (making change for Italians is an age old problem that converting to the Euro didn’t fix), they make us take whatever it is we are buying knowing we’ll settle up the next time. If I buy something from my fruit vendor or flower shop lady for a still life they ask me to bring the painting to show them when I am done.

Three blocks of Barbaroux belong to the quarter called “La Contrada dei Guardainfanti.”  It is where all the city’s corset shops were concentrated centuries ago. The elderly man from Rome who owns the peculiar antique apothecary shop in the middle of the quarter told me that corsets, “guardainfanti,” which means “protect the infant,” were invented for women to wear during their pregancy. Since the streets back then were hard to navigate with the horses, carts, cobblestones and muck, pregnant woman would fall easily but the whalebone corset could give some protection.

These are some paintings I have done recently in preparation for an exhibit at the gallery in Alba next month, each showing items I have purchased on Via Barbaroux, including a few photos of the shops themselves.

 

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Roadside Irises

by admin on May 11, 2012

I have been enjoying a few of the books that have been published lately by Americans living in Paris. A lot of what these authors describe is similar to what I experience living in Italy. One author wrote about how his bank was unable to make change of his 20 Euros. My cousin lives in Rome and once wrote on her blog about her all day, futile pursuit in buying a frame.  It is all true and toggles between charm and aggravation, this sometimes stuttering, inefficient system of commerce.  While “big-box” shopping is making some in-roads, for the most part, when you need something, you turn to small, owner-operated shops where they don’t have much merchandise but do have a good supply of customer service.

Last summer I wanted to refurbish an old table that I found in our cantina and I needed sandpaper. I went to several stores in search of sandpaper. In the US you might find sandpaper in a hardware store. That is not the case here. I can’t remember exactly what else the “sandpaper” store sold but I think it was painting accoutrements, although not paint, since you would need to go to the paint store for that. Here is how I bought my sandpaper. I explained that I was refurbishing a table and the man explained to me that I needed differing  tooths of paper, which I already knew. Then, like a seamstress handling fine linen, he took out a sheet of the varying types, carefully unwrapped each from its protective covering, and fanned them out on the counter so we could examine them together. I bought three sheets, which came to no more than 3 Euros.

Early this week, older son Alessandro needed a binder clip for his schoolwork. I didn’t have one but I promised I would be purchasing one for him within the next several days. I needed to pad the timeframe a bit just in case I had trouble finding the proper store. Luckily enough, the store nearby that I liken to a miniature Office Depot had binder clips. I can’t explain the feeling of triumph one can get in moments like this. As in, “Look! They have binder clips AND batteries!”  But unlike Office Depot, you wait your turn and then explain to the shopkeeper what you need. I waited behind a young college student who needed, among other small items, the little tape you use to mark a page. I listened as the shopkeeper explained, “This is an off-brand to the name brand but it works just as well.” They examined the tape together carefully. Tape, to mark a page. Her purchase rang up to 7 Euros. When it was my turn, I explained that I needed a binder clip. “What size?” I was asked. The shopkeeper took out the varying sizes and we opened and closed them together. That afternoon I was anxious for Alessandro to come home to see if I had bought the right size, and then I was disappointed when he didn’t use it right away. “Why aren’t you using the binder clip yet?” I asked several days later. I didn’t find it at all odd either that I was still discussing a binder clip, having spent more time on this purchase then I have to buy a sofa.

Perhaps what I just described leans toward the side of aggravation, so to be fair, tomorrow, I’ll post about the charm!

Although oil painting will always be my preferred medium, I have been studying watercolor with a naturalist illustrator, and I am starting to enjoy it. Here is a watercolor sketch I did of some irises I collected from the side of the road in Treiso.

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Tulips & Rain

May 2, 2012

Greetings from the rain forest that is Italy! I think we have been under water for three months, which might be why most of Italy is so successful at growing grapes. Our grapevines are starting to sprout sturdy little green leaves. Even if we get some hail storms, the vines are still, at this point, [...]

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Liberation & San Marco

April 26, 2012

It really is all about food here in Italy. Yesterday was Liberation Day and I woke up in a panic—realizing that every single food store in the city would be closed.  Why I can’t think of things like this in advance I blame on being American– we just aren’t used to stores ever closing. Liberation [...]

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Soccer by the Sea

March 14, 2012

There are a lot of differences between life in the US and life in Italy but something that really stands out to me is having son Ben play soccer in the Giovanissimi Nazionali Professionisti league. Gone are the days of crummy hotel rooms, fast food meals and soccer fields surrounded by strip malls in nowheresville, [...]

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Playing La Vie En Rose

March 1, 2012

I’ve been struggling a little to get used to painting in our city apartment. My original intention of going back to my studio in the vineyard several times a week didn’t pan out due to the weather so I have been moving my easel around in the apartment, trying to get the right setup. Our [...]

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Cheerful Artichokes

February 13, 2012

“Artichokes & Bean Pot”, 16 x 20, oil on linen You just know spring is around the corner when you start to see artichokes for sale at the fruit and vegetable stands. My fruit/vegetable vendor has long stemmed artichokes arranged in pails around the doorway to  his shop, just like all the city’s flower shops [...]

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Giant Pears & Broken Elevators

February 7, 2012

We have been having record low temperatures in this part of Europe and yesterday morning it was -15 degrees Celsius. Our little apartment is on the fifth floor of a large palazzo built in the 16th century. Italians don’t count the ground level, so our floor is considered the fourth, but when I am walking [...]

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Influenza!

January 31, 2012

Vineyard life is great in spring, summer, and fall, but come winter you feel the toughness and desolation of being on a farm. So, with the happiness of our two boys in mind, and to make life easier for everyone for the next few months, we rented our friends’ apartment in the historical center of [...]

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Re-Entry

January 9, 2012

Italians have a lot of phrases commemorating upcoming special days and events. Aside from the obvious, such as Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, Happy Easter, they also say, “Happy Sunday,” “Happy festival,” “Happy vacation.” When you are returning from your vacation they will start to wish you, “Buon’ rientro,” which means, loosely, “happy return,” but [...]

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