When we are staying in the attic apartment in Torino, I try to shop as much as I can on the narrow cobblestone street called Via Barbaroux which stretches all the way to Piazza Castello from our palazzo. Here it is as if time stood still and almost all our needs are met with tiny owner-operated one room shops. I can buy groceries, cheese, vegetables, flowers, and browse the antique and junk stores at the same time. The shopkeepers are warm and friendly and know our kids, our shopping habits, and what we are up to. We stop to have a chat or say hello if we are walking by their shops, even if we aren’t stopping to buy. If we find ourselves without enough money, or can’t make the right change (making change for Italians is an age old problem that converting to the Euro didn’t fix), they make us take whatever it is we are buying knowing we’ll settle up the next time. If I buy something from my fruit vendor or flower shop lady for a still life they ask me to bring the painting to show them when I am done.
Three blocks of Barbaroux belong to the quarter called “La Contrada dei Guardainfanti.” It is where all the city’s corset shops were concentrated centuries ago. The elderly man from Rome who owns the peculiar antique apothecary shop in the middle of the quarter told me that corsets, “guardainfanti,” which means “protect the infant,” were invented for women to wear during their pregancy. Since the streets back then were hard to navigate with the horses, carts, cobblestones and muck, pregnant woman would fall easily but the whalebone corset could give some protection.
These are some paintings I have done recently in preparation for an exhibit at the gallery in Alba next month, each showing items I have purchased on Via Barbaroux, including a few photos of the shops themselves.
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